By James Aitchison

For most of us, the British honours system is as baffling as it is somewhat incongruous.  In today’s world, many of its heraldic institutions seem relics of past glory.  Arguably, the most curious of these is an order of chivalry established in 1348: The Most Noble Order of the Garter.

The Order’s badge

Why is it the most senior British knighthood of all?

And why a garter?

The Order’s regalia showing the mantle and hat

According to the Anglica Historia, King Edward III of England was dancing with Joan of Kent, his first cousin and daughter-in-law, at a ball held in Calais to celebrate a military victory over the French.  Without warning, Joan’s garter — quite an erotic garment at the time — slipped down her leg for all to see.  Those around her burst out laughing.  The king, ever gracious, picked it up and placed it around his own leg.  He addressed his snickering courtiers in Old Norman French, spoken by the English ruling class of the day: “Honi soit qui mal y pense,” which means “Shame on anyone who thinks evil of it.”

And with a final parting shot at his flunkies, he added, “Tel qui s’en rit aujourd’hui, s’honorera de la porter,” meaning “Whoever is laughing at this thing today will later be proud to wear it.”  So saying, Edward promulgated the Order of the Garter, and his rebuke became its official motto.

Sadly, though, it seems this is the stuff of legend, and shame on you if you think evil of it!  King Richard the Lionheart must take credit for establishing the order.  According to an ancient letter:

“This order began fyrst by kynge Rycharde, Cure de Lyon, at the sege of the citye of Acres, where in his great necessyte, there were but 26 knygthes that fyrmely and surely abode by the kynge, where he caused all them to were thongs of blew leyther about thyr legges.  And afterward they were called the knygthes of the blew thonge…”

Thus, a blue leather ribbon became the symbol of a tightly knit band of supporters.  By Edward’s time, when kings needed all the support they could get, the ribbon had become a garter. 

The Order of the Garter is bestowed at the monarch’s pleasure.  The Order is strictly limited and includes the King (the Sovereign of the Garter), the Prince of Wales (Royal Knight Companion of the Garter), and not more than 24 Companion members and various supernumerary members.  Males are titled Knights Companion, while females are Ladies Companion of the Garter.

Because the Order is dedicated to England’s patron saint, Saint George, and bears his cross, members’ banners are displayed in St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle.

In 1813, supernumerary membership was extended to foreign nationals, known as Stranger Knights and Ladies of the Garter.  Strange, indeed, because during the First World War, supernumerary members included monarchs and princes of enemy nations.  Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany and Emperor Franz-Joseph of Austria were struck off the roll.  The banner of King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy was removed in the Second World War, as was Emperor Hirohito’s.  In 1971, when Hirohito made a state visit to Britain, Elizabeth II restored the Japanese emperor’s garter, much to his delight.

While the Most Noble Order has endured for more than six centuries, its motto Honi soit qui mal y pense has seemingly developed a life of its own.  For example, it serves as a motto for the British Army Catering Corps (perhaps as a reminder not to think evil of the food being served).  It was used as a motto for The Blue Book, published in 1895, which was a guide to the prostitutes of New Orleans.  And once it was even emblazoned on the gates to pop star Michael Jackson’s Neverland ranch.